New Zealand v France: closer than you think

Auckland’s streets are teaming with Gallic and Kiwi pride in anticipation of the Rugby World Cup final as the two rugby hemispheres unite in a weekend to remember.

But, rugby aside, New Zealand and France are not as far apart as it looks from the outside - and it goes back a long way - which may be a surprise to many of those rallying to support their team on Sunday, including the French Minister of Sport David Douillet who has flown in for the occasion.

Douillet helped further cement French - New Zealand sporting ties today when he presented the people of Canterbury with a sculpture entitled L'Enjeu [At Stake]. The rugby-themed sculpture by Paris artist Laurence Bonnel was gifted by French association Les Amoureux du Rugby [The Rugby Lovers].

As one who’s out and about on the streets more than most, David Hill of Auckland Walks - who guides walking heritage, art and maritime tours of downtown Auckland - has compiled a list of experiences that have previously united Kiwis and ‘Frogs’.

French voyages of discovery
It’s a long history that goes back to the early 18th century when intrepid French explorers first headed into the Pacific and towards New Zealand - and, they’ve been coming back ever since.

The first was Jean-Baptiste Langerie (1715) who crossed the Pacific from China to South America and France, claiming the first west - east circumnavigation of the world. He was followed by Louis-Antoine Bougainville (1768), Jean-Francois-Marie de Surville (1769), Marion du Fresne (1772), and Charles Philip de Thierry (1822).

They were among the first to chart New Zealand coasts or have face-to-face encounters with Maori tribes - though not always friendly.

Jules Dumont d’Urville, who visited three times, arrived in the Bay of Islands in 1824 on the Coquille. In 1826, on his second visit, d’Urville moored the Astrolabe in Waitemata Harbour and climbed Remuera / Mt Hobson - one of Auckland’s landmark volcanic peaks.

French settlers
French attempts to colonise Aotearoa met with limited success.

Baron Charles Philip de Thierry, a courtesan and conman with a shady past, purchased 40,000 acres of land on the Hokianga Harbour - a peaceful sand-dune encircled haven on the North Island’s northern west coast - in 1822, proposing to create a sovereign authority. However, no settlers arrived.

After a second attempt at a settlement in 1835 was out-manoeuvred by British representative James Busby, Philip de Thierry retired to Auckland to teach piano and write, and died there in 1864.

French Bishop Jean Baptiste Pompallier set up the first Roman Catholic mission in 1838 in the Bay of Islands. The first Catholic church was built in New Zealand at Russell. Pompallier also played an important role in testing the principles of the Treaty of Waitangi - New Zealand’s founding document.

Other French religious orders were active in the Whanganui and Hawke’s Bay regions where they established New Zealand’s first vineyard.

Akaroa - a French settlement
French sea captain Jean Francois Langlois, from Le Havre, commanded the whaler Cachalot in New Zealand waters in the 1838 and returned to France keen to establish a French settlement.

As a result of Langlois' campaign, Charles Lavaud in the Comte de Paris landed 53 French settlers sponsored by the Nanto-Bordelaise Compagnie at Akaroa on Banks Peninsula, in the South Island, to establish Port Louis-Phillipe in 1840.

However, on arrival, the new arrivals discovered that the just-signed Treaty of Waitangi between the British Crown and Maori tribes had pre-empted French colonial intentions. But they stayed, establishing the little settlement of Akaroa that today still proudly exhibits its French origins.

Two decades later, the Otago goldrush of the 1860s attracted French fortune-seekers. In the Queenstown Lakes region, French brothers Pierre and Robert Butel established a flour mill near Arrowtown which now forms the heritage heart of Millbrook Resort - one of New Zealand’s premier golfing destinations.

Modern allies
During the 20th century New Zealand Forces fought alongside their French counterparts in two world wars.

In 1915, 8450 Kiwi soldiers lined up with 79,000 French at Gallipoli - 88% or 7473 New Zealanders were either killed or wounded.

After Gallipoli, the NZEF arrived in France with the ANZAC forces and spent the rest of the war stationed there and in Flanders, fighting on the Somme, at Messines and at Paschendaele. The little French town of Le Quesnoy has a series of streets and public places named for New Zealand.

The NZ Army fought in France during WWII, as well as in other parts of Europe, Crete, North Africa and Egypt.

Nuclear-free New Zealand
Some French Kiwi connections are notable for other reasons.

Just along from Auckland’s main harbourside RWC fan zone is the spot where French DGSE agents bombed the Rainbow Warrior in 1985 as an attempt to sabotage Greenpeace and New Zealand efforts to stop French nuclear testing in the Pacific.

The perpetrators went to jail, France paid out compensation to New Zealand, and the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior is now a popular diving tourist attraction in the Bay of Islands.

Two years later, on 9 June 1987, New Zealand became world’s first country to declare itself nuclear free, and free of nuclear or biological weapons.

And, just a couple of weeks later - on 20 June 1987 - the All Blacks defeated Les Bleus 29-9 to win the first Rugby World Cup.

French roots
New Zealand phone books have plenty of French names - leaving no doubt as to the heritage of Gallic influence on Aotearoa New Zealand - though some of those are recent arrivals who have come seeking a new life down-under.

And, there are at least a couple of former All Blacks with French names - Troy Flavell (2000, 2001, 2006) and Jules Le Lievre (1962 - 64).

For anyone wanting to eat French or rather à la française in Auckland, David Hill says there are plenty of choices:

• Torchon - Elliot St Stables
• Pastis - cnr Victoria and Nelson Sts
• St Tropez - Parnell Rd
• Merlot Wine Bar - O’Connell St
• La Cantine de Torchon - Ponsonby Road
• L’Assiette in the Atrium - Britomart Place
• Le Garde-manger - 466 Queen St
• Tabou - New North Rd Kingsland

Background: Auckland Heritage Walks

Auckland Heritage Walks depart from the Harbour Information Centre on Pier 1 by the Ferry Building. Bookings are required, and can include a lunch option at Hotel De Brett.

City Heritage Walk (daily): A guided and entertaining two-hour discovery experience around the central city, starting on the waterfront and walking up through the lower city to Albert Park and return. There are encounters with almost 1000 years of history since Maori first settled Tamaki Makarau - "the land of many lovers". The guide offers insights into local culture and an understanding of the Auckland story from Maori and European perspectives.

Maritime History Walk (monthly): Auckland's strong maritime tradition enjoys a global reputation built around hosting the America's Cup regattas of 2000 and 2003. The tour focuses on a rich heritage, from the extraordinary Polynesian migrations and the early Europeans through to the remarkable life of Sir Peter Blake, and includes a visit to Voyager Maritime Museum.

Art of the City Walk (monthly): This walk explores outstanding heritage buildings and the working spaces within, including visits to four leading art dealers and exhibitors who explain the dynamic between their galleries and the art displayed. This tour includes Auckland's cityscape, architecture, public art and open spaces.

More information

Akaroa: the French Connection

New Zealand & France - strong links